Too exhausted to hardly think, I found myself sprawled out by a water spiket, hoping to strike up a conversation and either stay at the camp or hike back with someone. It sure gets lonely on the trail, and seems to draw out the time when you are by yourself.
I wobbled down the path through the campground and dropped onto the steps below a cabin. I was looking for a bench, but anything would do. I layed back onto my pack, savoring every second that I was no longer on my feet. The blood began to rush away from my feet, which tingled as they became lighter. The watering spicket was in use, but I was certainly in no hurry to move.
A man by the name of William began talking to me, he had been carrying a 65 pound pack around the canyon bottom, with every sort of tool you could ever need in the outdoors. The only problem was, he was so prepared, he could hardly move. For a trip like that you want as little as possible, but it wasn't until he started going back uphill until he realized this. It's kinda like when CB decide to bring a spatula for an evening hike. Nothing else to cook with per say, but he had it! haha
William had come from Phantom Ranch as well, he left back at noon, two hours before me, and had been resting for the last 5 hours at Indian Gardens. I watched him re-pack his bag throwing in everything you could possible imagine. You have to wonder how he fit it all in... but it WAS a BIG bag.
He was ready to finish his hike... and I was anything but ready. Every inch of my body hurt, my blister was swelling, my calves and hamstrings (and every other muscle in my legs) were numb with exhaustion- just too stiff to move. I didn't want to wait around any longer than I had to, I needed to finish this hike- and GO TO BED! So despite my body's will, I lumped my pack back on and joined William on the trail. The pack was still digging in, my shoes had a huge hole in the heel (and thus the blister), and chaffing like you wouldn't believe. I was determined to finish, and now I was only 4 miles away!
I knew the part ahead would be killer awful, but it wasn't that far away- or so I thought... We began off on the trail, William urged me to lead off since he was certain his pack would lead him behind me. I was perfectly fine going a abnormally slow pace. He offered up his hiking poles, which we decided to share. I've never been so happy to have them, I'll tell you that damn pole saved my life! I don't think I'd be walking today without it.
We carried on chattering away about his work as a christian leader of some sort, and about how he was an expert on outdoor equipment (just not on how to pack it). I'm certain that there was very little blood going to my head by this point, because there is a definite lack in memory retention. When I was hiking with Norman back in mid-afternoon, he was teaching me about the canyon, and a plant called Detura... he must have told me the name of it more than 6 times... I'd repeat it to myself over and over until I forgot it minutes later. This must be the stupidity they talk about to do crazy things like hike the grand canyon on a 107 degree day.
I was so thankful that it was cool, a perfect temperature for hiking. If only I were well rested... or rested at all for that matter. I would occasionally check my GPS, I had figured we would be there in a couple of hours.
Cantering on... at a snails pace, I thought about how I was looking forward to meeting my new friend Bill DeVoe, another owl guy on the South Rim. We had met on CouchSurfing, an online website for traveler. We had already so much in common that I ended the first conversation short simply saying that we had to meet. I'm certain that we clarified that we were on the same canyon rim, but after 2 hours of looking for each other we realized our obvious mistake. He had hiked this trail once before, and had completed it in 8.5 hours. That's records pace, and I was sure of that when he said so. I figured that I'd take somewhere between 10 and 12 hours, and looking at the time just then, decided that it'd be closer to 12 hours.
The sunset of oranges and reds faded into nightfall, and the stars began to light the sky. Resting every 15 minutes or so, we came across a couple of mule deer. They were walking along a steep rocky hill, foraging on the occasional spurt of foliage. A man strolled around the corner, and we pointed out the mulies to him. We spoke briefly, and he had offered up the trail crew cabin at Indian Springs seeing that he was "the man in charge". The offer was so tempting, but it was 20 minutes since we left there, and we'd be going back downhill. I had to finish! He looked at us like we were a little crazy... and we probably were, but on we went.
Up the steep hills, climbing our way closer to heaven, I began to feel like I was simply gliding along. I knew different, but it was a pleasant thought. Endorphins, HOORAH!!!! We started to tease each other about finding the elevator. And actually, there was supposivly an old elevator hidden from public view... somewhere along the trail. Before long we pulled out the headlamps, and continued in sheer darkness. The moon began to rise, and soon we could see a cream lit fog floating above the deep canyon below us. It was spectacular, perhaps even erie, but not to my notice or concern.
A few desert scorpions passed by, and the ledges grew even steeper. I pulled out the gps once again, and it said that we had 4,000ft to go. I looked up ahead of me, and the top only appeared about 1,500ft. Voices from the rim above hollered down, too muffled to make out words. I hollered back once, but decided to keep that bit of energy for my legs. They seemed to be having a great time, and with due luck, that would be Bill and a friend waiting to pick me up.
I was sure the instrument was wrong, must be canyon interference. Luckily, it was less than a mile to the trails end (I could agree with the GPS on that)! With new enthusiasm, we began to walk faster (or limp in my case), and within the next half an hour we reached what I had thought was the top. To my dismal dismay, the gps was certainly not wrong! Another 2,500ft cliff face now towered over us. So many times by now I had thought I had reached the top... but the damn thing keeps going!
I carelessly flopped down on the trail... in dried up mule poo... and did not care one bit. I layed their breathing with the full capacity of my lungs too tired to be disappointed. I recall back at the beginning of the trail telling myself to expect to simply hike forever. That there was no end, and if I ever reached one... it would be a surprise.
As I rounded another corner, a large flat boulder poked out above a sheer drop off. I had to laugh, "Hey look, that is SO nice of them! They give you the option to jump!" It certainly felt like an easier way out, but I was certainly just kidding.
"Hey... you know what, when I get to the top, I'm going to sing out Queens 'WE ARE THE CHAMPIONS', when we finally reach that top."
Time was endless, no beginning, no end. Just you in the moment, and you're smart you'll do something worthwhile with it. Since I knew that I would spend eternity hiking, neither of us had any shame in taking breaks every other switchback. William was quite entertaining, he always had to find the perfect rock to sit on, and made sure that he wasn't getting too dirty. Me on the other hand... I've had three river baths and was still covered in sweat, dirt caked on, sat in mule poo, and had already peed on myself that day. Like I cared where I sat!
"Hey Will... you see the elevator yet?"
Further down the trail, we turned around and noticed a small light coming up through the darkness of the canyon. For some reason thought it would be great to scare them. I stood by the trail (to prevent anyone from falling off) and William hid in the bush further back. When the light finally reached my, I was surprised to find three people following a meg light. They were friendly, and we talked for a sec. William jumped out, and we all got a great laugh out of it. Other than William, I hadn't seen another person on the desolate trail since Phantom Ranch, over 10 hours ago. We walked together for awhile, but the backpack-free, injury-free, well rested troop bombed right up that path.
William found this large flat boulder where we stretched out to look at the stars. I wish I knew my constellations better. The sky was full of shooting stars, I remember wishing only that I make it back to the top. They were beautiful.
It must have been less than 1,000ft to the top now, and we were taking our sweet tired ass time getting there. There was little energy left for excitement, as I was sure there would be another monument to climb beyond this rim.
Up and up we went, through an arch in the trail... way cool I thought as I hobbled on by. There were signs around it saying DANGER... but all I could think was that they were SIGNS OF LIFE!! Little glowing dots light up the lodges of the South Rim, and we knew that this was finally it. One last long rest on a log, we took in the vastness of a moonlit grand canyon, with Great Appreciation.
Like an old woman carrying an oxygen tank on her back and steadying her wobble with a cane, I walked the last few feet of the trail. With an awkward exasperated gasp of a drone, I began to sing, "we are The CHAMPIONS, WE ARE the chAmPIONS..." (and with the last of my breath), "of the world".